Ready-Made Shirts vs Custom Shirts

[4.3.2008 | Mercer Island, WA ]
Jeff Collins, Professional Haberdasher

I recently ran across a great blog about shirts: TailorInStyle.com. There was an article in there about ready-made shirt sizing & I couldn't help but reply to it. It reminded me of a question I responded to this time last year in my blog about The Perfect Shirt. Here is my response to Peter's blog at www.TailorInStyle.com

"I’m really enjoying your website because you tell it like it is. Tailored shirts are your best bet for fit. However unless you know where to get them they can be difficult to find. Therefore you spend time dealing with ready-made fit considering that’s what 95% of the people are going to buy.

Even though a haberdasher like myself can be hard to find, when I hear of people spending over $100 on ready-made shirts from the store (or $65 for that matter) a small piece of me cries out, “WHY?” I understand that some designers who charge more are actually delivering better fabrics and fit for the individual they are targeting. However, the fit is still primarily dependant on two things: neck size & sleeve length. That’s pretty much it unless you can find their version of an athletic fit.

Custom tailored shirts take 16 measurements into consideration and dozens of options for shirt features. What does this mean? When you go to the store you have to first find your size, then you can peruse the fabrics. When I come to my clients, I bring hundreds of fabrics that will all fit so it is merely a matter of finding the fabrics you love.

That is what shopping should be."

If you can see the photo I attached it is of a ready-made shirt. Overall it isn't bad but that is because it is a nice material and quality construction. The problem with it is that it is what it is. You can't change it. In my custom shirts I don't put an itchy label on the back of the shirt. I prefer edge stitching and no pocket for a cleaner look. Also the cuffs are often too big & fall down over your hand. We all know how blousy a ready-made shirt can be.

There are other reasons a ready-made shirt falls well short of the perfect fit but I will leave it at that for now. Go check out Peter's blog: www.TailorInStyle.com

My Best,

Jeff Collins Professional Haberdasher http://www.MyHaberdasher.com

Email this | del.icio.us

3 responses to: "Ready-Made Shirts vs Custom Shirts"

Thursday, April 24, 2008 Jeff Collins, Professional Haberdasher says: We all know that when looking for a shirt at the store you either go to your letter (M, L, XL) or you look for your neck & sleeve length (16″/34″). Hopefully it fits and isn’t too blousey in the midsection. But what is involved in custom making a shirt? Here are the measurements taken: 1) Neck (to the 1/4″) 2) Tie space opening (where the front collar meets @ the top) 3) Back Collar height (1/4″) 4) Front Collar height (1/4″) 5) Collar point length (1/4″) 6) Collar spread distance 7) Left shoulder slope (1/4″) 8) Right shoulder slope (1/4″) 9) Left sleeve length (1/2″) 10) Right sleeve length (1/2″) 11) Left cuff circumference (1/4″) 12) Right cuff circumference (1/4″) 13) Chest (1″) 14) Shirt waist (1″) 15) Shirt seat (1″) 16) Length (1″) Once these items are accounted for you can talk styling: Pockets or not, pleated shoulders, cuff styles, rounded bottom, etc. The other wonderful thing about buying custom shirts is that, when you are not limited by the selection in your size, every fabric fits you so shopping is merely a matter of finding your favorites. Most custom tailors have 200-400 fabrics from which to choose. My Best, Jeff Collins Professional Haberdasher http://www.MyHaberdasher.com

Monday, April 7, 2008 Jeff Collins, Professional Haberdasher says: Peter, You are welcome. I think your site has some great info and I'm looking forward to your book about dress shirts. For anyone who hasn't looked at Peter's site yet you should do so and sign up for his style book - it is still free! Custom shirts can have a higher price tag than readymade shirts but that is not always the case. Many of my clients were already spending $100+ on shirts from the stores. Just look at GQ and other fashion mags & you will see price tags that surpass my custom shirts but they are still made to fit the 'everyman.' My shirts often last longer than readymade shirts, making the price difference about the same when you consider replacement costs. So if you factor in the fit and style benefits you are really coming out ahead with custom made if you currently spend more than $40 on readymade shirts. My Best, Jeff Collins Professional Haberdasher www.MyHaberdasher.com

Monday, April 7, 2008 Peter says: Thanks for the mention and the nice words. The fit is and will always be so important for a dress shirt, going on compromise with off the rack shirts should just not happen. Of course, price tags are a bit more steep on customized shirts, but they are really worth it. All the best. Peter Founder of [url]www.TailorInStyle.com[/url].

Leave a comment: